Michael Jackson dies and Pirajá burns

These events aren't related, of course. And, to tell the truth, Pirajá isn't burning, but there were many bonfires up and down the street the other night to celebrate the São João holiday. If asthmatics exist in Brazil, they probably were all in the hospital this week.

São João (Saint John the Baptist) is probably the most celebrated holiday in the northeast outside of Carnaval. I don't know if it's bigger than Christmas, but I think it is. Officially, São João lasts 2 days -- the 23rd and 24th of June. In practice, the celebrating geared up last Thursday (June 18th) and putters along until the end of this weekend (June 28th). In other words, a week without much work! School is closed all week. Stores are mostly closed. It seems to be the goal of many people to drink beer continuously for a solid week, with a break on Tuesday and Wednesday, when they drink many of the special fruit liquors distilled for the occasion instead.

The city newspaper's website had a survey asking what São João traditions were most important. Number 1 was making a trip to the interior (anywhere outside of Salvador), where people REALLY party and dance all night, and by day pretend their farmers or cowboys. William and Claudio (Fabricio's brothers) spent one whole day on a horse ride of about 20 miles. The number 2 tradition (a close second) was drinking many different types of fruit liquors--tamarindo, jenipapo, cajá, pitanga, jaboticaba, abacaxi, banana, murici, cambuí, umbu and others, including mint and chocolate (source: http://www.estancia-se.com.br/noticia.asp?cod=447&aspid=).

The required foods for the holiday include steamed or boiled peanuts (in their shells), roasted corn on the cob, and an endless variety of snacks and sweets made out of corn, tapioca, or cassava. Besides food and drink, you see lots of people dressed up like "country folks" with straw hats or frilly shirts. Basically, imagine a holiday based around Country and Western music and you get the idea.

Michael Jackson's passing spread like wildfire after I first announced it to my hosts last night. Everyone LOVES his music here, and they've been playing it all day on stereos and on TV. As if they needed another excuse, Fabricio said that when someone famous dies, nobody goes to work! LOL :-D